ZURICH, Switzerland — My first visit to
Switzerland was more than three decades ago,
when I spent all my time in Lucerne, surely one
of the most charming cities in Europe. I was
enchanted by its sights and the rural scenes —
fairy-tale chalets, meadows of wildflowers, and
cows, their necks draped with bells, grazing on
the slopes of mountains that towered above the
countryside. I fell in love.
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